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Carolyn Humphries

A help-yourself table of antipasti sets the tone, with fried gianchetti, Sicilan olives, and delicious polpettine of meat, vegetables and garlic. Pasta courses include pasta alla Norma tomatoes, aubergine and salted ricotta , and notable secondi include a tuna steak with capers, olives, tomatoes and lemon.

If only there was more space between tables. In contrast, the food, most of which is typical of Piacenza, is the height of regional sophistication. There is no great wine local to Piacenza, so the list sensibly favours Piedmont varieties. With its white linen tablecloths and ageing waiters, Rigolo looks very formal but is actually delightfully relaxed in a calm, old-fashioned way. The food is Tuscan fresh pappardelle with wild boar , the service impeccable, and foreigners are welcomed with open arms. When you've had your fill of cutting-edge contemporary design, book a table at Gallura where the walls are painted with seaside scenes surrounded by fake treasures and plastic rocks.

The food, though, is a serious affair, served by sombre Sardinian waiters who - correctly - explain the preponderance of fish dishes as modern Sardinian cuisine.


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If you like strong flavours, try the hot octopus salad followed by linguine alla gallurese with clams and fish eggs. The gnocchetti Sardi with tomatoes and sausage is less of an acquired taste. Finish with a chunk of fresh Pecorino Sardo cheese. Speakeasy, in the heart of the picturesque Brera district, is a bar-restaurant with jazz portraits on the wall, a few tables outside, and a good Italo-American brunch menu that includes fried eggs with bacon and roast potatoes.

Aurora is a well-established local favourite with a cosy turn-of the-century room for winter dining and a glorious garden shaded by vines for the summer. The cuisine of the Valtellina area can be sampled at this alpine-style restaurant which has a lovely shady garden. The menu is seasonal, with dishes such as sciatt small, fried, cheese-filled buckwheat pastries , bresaola, slinzighe and violino local hams , and potato and mushroom tart. Main courses tend to be substantial even in summer, and there's no doubting the quality: tender venison steak; creamy polenta with funghi porcini; and excellent home-made puddings.

For a truly Milanese mix of neighbourhood simplicity and in-the-know cool, head for one of the few surviving latterie, or dairy shops. Originally only the simplest pasta dishes, dressed with butter and cheese were served at these, but now they offer a wider menu. Only a handful are left in Milan's suburbs.

Where to stay in Milan

This lunch-only place has been run by the Notari family for almost half a century. This is a more restaurant-like latteria. Unsurprisingly, the city has aperitivo bars of every stripe. Composed of various complementary areas including an indoor foyer, patio, courtyard and breathtaking lounge , the bar has become "the" place for the Milanese to enjoy aperitif.

The club is known for its seasonal restyling, the emphasis being on the hotel's magical garden, with its contemporary lounge in the gazebo and the total black courtyard that acts as a summer extension of the famous black label room. The bar boasts an extensive cocktail list try the caipirinha and is renowned for having the best International DJs. The aperitivo cult also has a more sedate, less pubby side, celebrated especially in those pasticcerie or cake shops which in Milan as in Venice double up as purveyors of cocktails and savoury nibbles.

The Pasticceria Sant'Ambroeus is a classic of the genre, with a clientele as unchanging as the ultra-conservative s decor. Just east of the Navigli district, Shu is a very sharp, very designed, very green bar-restaurant for the Prada generation. In the centre of the restaurant space, a s-revisited ceiling is held up by a huge gold forearm. Admission free. The quality is average but the view of the church of San Lorenzo is unique. Liquor aficionados will want to pay a visit to Zucca in Galleria, on a corner where the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele emerges into piazza del Duomo.

It was here that Gaspare Campari's alcoholic infusion of herbs was launched in the s; and after a refurbishment that returned the Art Nouveau fittings and mosaics to their original glory, Zucca is still a good place to look cool over a Campari soda. The Japanese theme continues downstairs with tatami-style floor, opaque port-hole panels and cube-shaped armchairs.

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Via Pisoni 1 00 39 02 ; armaniristorante. The huge but laid-back Alcatraz is particularly gratifying on Friday disco nights for those whose musical memories stretch back beyond Britney Spears. For the quintessential Milanese nightspot, head for Le Banque, in the financial district.

Magazzini Generali is a rehauled industrial warehouse and one of best places to work up a sweat. The 2,piece collection - which also features work by Morandi, Fontana and de Chirico - is also 'local' in character in that it remains within the s apartment of its former owners, Antonio Boschi and Marieda Di Stefano who, late in life, decided to donate the property and its contents to the state. Open Tues-Sun, 10am-6pm. When brothers Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi moved into their purpose-built palazzo in fashionable via Santo Spirito in , they were determined not to bow to the taste of the times.

In some ways, they were modern Milanese gentlemen, whose outdoor interests ranged from cycling to hot-air ballooning. But their interior-design obsessions were decidedly retro: as devotees of the Lombard Renaissance, they had their new home fitted out as a replica of an early 16th-century Milanese nobleman's abode.

As there were very few original pieces left on the antique market, they achieved this effect by mixing authentic items - paintings, marble fireplaces, gilded pastiglia boxes, ivory sundials - with specially commissioned copies made by some of the leading craftsmen of the day.

The result, which opened to the public in as the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi, is a fascinating study in the history of taste and contains more than a few artistic gems, including Giovanni Bellini's airy, statuesque Santa Giustina. Even mod cons such as the piano and the bathtub - with running water, an innovation for the s - were carefully masked to fit into the overall scheme.

Open Tues-Sun, 1pm In , gentleman of leisure Gian Giacomo Poldi-Pezzoli specified that his 17th-century palazzo on via Manzoni and the art collection it contained should be accessible to the public after his death; when the museum, which is run as a private foundation, opened in , it was one of the first such house-galleries in Europe.

It is a jewel-case of a gallery, with a collection of 15th- to 18th-century Italian masters that includes Antonio Pollaiuolo's iconic Portrait of a Young Woman - the one with the pretty nose and the 'Haven't you finished yet? Alongside the Mantegnas, Bellinis and della Francescas are some fine examples of decorative art, such as Persian carpets, Arabic metalwork and Murano glass. Book at least two months in advance for a regular performance, or six months for a prima first night.

The opening night of the seven-month season on 7 December - the feast day of Milan's patron saint, Ambrogio - is virtually impossible to get into unless you are a season-ticket holder or a celebrity. The best way to book from abroad is through La Scala's website. For those without a booking there are various options, none of them easy. Start by going to the box office: some of the pricier tickets may still be on sale a few days before a performance. If that doesn't work, try your hotel concierge, who may 'know somebody'. As a last resort, go back to La Scala and peruse the complicated rules posted in the foyer in Italian for securing one of the standing places, which are sold half an hour before each performance - but only to those who got up at an unearthly hour to queue for one of the tickets that gives them the right to queue for a ticket later that day.

The Giardini Pubblici, at the end of via Manzoni, is Milan's favourite family park. Come here for swans, swings, ponies and an attempt at the sort of craggy landscaping that the city otherwise so noticeably lacks. There is a planetarium, a natural history museum, and a charming s-style chalet bar, Bar Bianco, run by Central del Latte di Milano, the city's dairy cooperative; generous filled rolls and salads, milkshakes, and Mr Whippy-style ice creams are sure to take the edge off any appetite.

Bastioni di Porta Venezia. For something a little more secluded, head for the Giardini Pubblicci's less well-known extension, Giardini di Villa Reale, on the other side of via Palestro, behind the imposing neoclassical palace of Villa Reale. Landscaped in the stile inglese in the s, the gardens have sweeping lawns popular for wedding photos and a small lake complete with Doric temple.

Via Palestro. On the south-eastern edge of Milan, not far from the San Donato spaghetti junction, is one of Italy's most charming Cistercian monasteries: Abbazia di Chiaravalle to get there, take the M3 metro line to Corvetto, then a number 77 bus. Founded in , the church and cloisters are Gothic in style but charmingly Lombard in their use of the local building material: brick. Inside the church is a good fresco by Bernardino Luini; the restful main cloister, with its double columns, is a good place to unwind when the city gets too much - at least until the next jet bound for Linate airport roars overhead.

Open Tues-Sun. A magnificent late 19th-century palazzo conceived and financed by Verdi to house retired musicians. You can't tour the building but you can see the composer's opulent tomb. Since the Tuscan master's severely faded al secco wall-painting, known in Italian as the Cenacolo Vinciano, was reopened to public view after restoration in , admission has been by appointment only, in groups of Ring ahead to book.

Those who turn up without a booking are admitted only in place of no-shows, and can expect a wait of an hour or more.

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Bookings should be made at least a week in advance for Saturday and Sunday slots; during the week, two days' notice is often enough. After the booking, the wait at the door and the three-stage acclimatisation chamber with automatic sliding doors designed to keep the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie at optimal temperature and humidity , seeing the painting itself has a smack of the emperor's new clothes about it, so badly has Leonardo's experimental tempera-and-glue medium withstood the test of time.

But then one notices the dynamic balance of the figures, and details such as the glass in the bottom right-hand corner of the table, glowing with a Vermeer-like inner light. Open Tues-Sun, 8am-7pm. Tram numbers 3, 4, 12 and 14 will take you out to the Cimitero Monumentale with its huge family mausoleums that are not that different from the houses of the good Milanese burghers who rest there. One of the most moving tombs is the temple to composer Arturo Toscanini's infant son, decorated with scenes of the boy at play. Open Tues-Sat, 8. A former 17th-century church and burial ground that was recently transformed into a beautiful exhibition venue.

See the view from the battlements of the Castello Sforzesco. The degree panorama from the roof of the Duomo gives not just the best but the only really comprehensive view of central Milan. Few visitors realise that the bristling, statue-topped pinnacles on the roof, which give Milan's landmark the appearance of a huge Gothic birthday cake, were added as recently as the 19th century; some even date from the s, when originals damaged or lost in wartime air-raids were replaced.

You can save a few euros by taking the stairs rather than the lift to the top. On a clear day - it's a shame there aren't that many in fog-and fume-bound Milan - the view stretches north to the Alps. The Gio Ponti-designed m-tall steel tower offers a great degree view of Milan. Palaces tours can be arranged through Discount Milano discountmilano. Built in the 16th century, Palazzo Clerici was transformed into a national treasure by Giorgio Antonio Clerici who, in , commissioned Giambattista Tiepolo to paint an astonishing ceiling-fresco in the main reception room.

This decorative masterpiece depicts the course of Apollo's chariot across a sky studded with Olympian deities and surrounded by earthly creatures representing the continents. Master carvers and decorators were then employed to turn every room into an artistic tour de force featuring priceless tapestries and dazzling quantities of gold leaf. Not all the rooms have been renovated but make sure you see the 'boudoir' of Maria Theresa of Austria and Marshall Clerici's study.

Pick a tram, any tram: there are still dozens of lines to choose from. One of the best, if you're heading into the centre of town from the station, is number 1, which runs along via Settembrini before cutting through the centro storico along via Manzoni, through piazza Cordusio, and back up towards piazza Cairoli and the Castello Sforzesco.

As befits its primary number, this line still uses original, single-coach orange trams, with lovely wooden seats and fittings. Heaven, hell - and just for you, Madam, I'll throw in purgatory as well. This is the place to buy Il Dante Minuscolo Hoepliano, a 7cm-bycm version of the Tuscan poet's magnum opus, first published in This bookshop of publisher Hoepli is a six-floor monument to reading.

TS Eliot used to carry the Hoepli pocket edition of The Divine Comedy around with him; and you should do the same, even if you don't speak a word of Italian. It's perfect for whipping out of that designer jacket when a fashion show starts to drag. The children's clothes here, while expensive, have become something of a cult among well-dressed Milanese mothers. The centre of Milan's fashion universe is the Quadrilatero d'Oro, the golden fashion rectangle that comprises the long parallel streets of via Montenapoleone and via della Spiga.

Via Montenapoleone Montenapo for short , which defines the long, western edge of the rectangle, is often considered to be the key street and most of the big designers, from Gucci and Prada to Versace and Valentino, have flagship outlets here. Busy corso Venezia to the south and via Manzoni to the north form the short sides of the rectangle, and take a lot of the overspill, including British designer Paul Smith, whose via Manzoni boutique is just down the road from the Spazio Armani all-in-one megastore.

Give yourself at least a morning to explore Carla Sozzani's cavernous store formerly a Fiat garage. This ex-magazine editor's selection of fashion labels for men and women, ephemera such as antique buttons, obscure perfumes and homewares is impeccable. Also boasts in-house tailor offering bespoke service. The music shop, the art gallery, the bookshop and restaurant make this place hard to leave. The shoe shop of the moment: cute, sexy styles including boots with attitude in every colour imaginable. Exquisite lingerie, nightdresses and baby layettes from another classic Milanese shop that is, thankfully, short on fashion gimmicks.

This is the choice of insiders who value luxury and don't mind paying a little more for it. Most single-brand spacci aziendali or factory outlets tend to be way out in the industrial hinterland; exceptions include shoe king Bruno Magli's sale shop on the corner of via Montenapoleone and via Manzoni and the MaxMara factory outlet near piazza San Babila. Cavalli e Nastri has an exceptional collection of vintage clothing, bags and jewellery from the s and s in first-rate condition. Price-conscious Milanese trendsters do most of their clothes and accessory shopping in huge, multi-label warehouses that offer last year's collections at reductions of between 30 and 50 per cent.

This is the fashion insider's one-stop shop for clothing and the shoes of the moment. The shop's own footwear brand, Ordinary People, is current and well-priced, and other big names like Philippe Model are also stocked. If you want this year's collections without the price tag, head for via Paolo Sarpi, in the heart of Milan's Chinatown, where a thousand sewing machines are busy consolidating the street's reputation as 'the poor man's via Montenapoleone'.

Via Paolo Sarpi, south of the Cimitero Monumentale viapaolosarpi. The style is 'comfortable contemporary' Minotti pouffes, Alias tables and the range of chocolate flavours - chilli, balsamic vinegar, aniseed - is truly astounding. Take the weight off your Manolos and stop for tea and cakes here.

In the month leading up to Easter, don't leave without a selection of their handmade chocolate eggs. At any time of year, a box of Cova chocolates is a most acceptable gift. Milan's most famous ice-cream shop is the Gelateria Marghera, where the concept has been expanded to include a unique range of semifreddi - half-frozen mousses based on traditional desserts such as millefoglie and profiteroles. For ladies who lunch and then do a little shopping, Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone is by far the chicest deli in town.

It's overpriced, but worth visiting for the visual feast. La Baita del Formaggio is a year-old cubbyhole of a shop that sells more than types of cheese, including the owner's own Lariano speziato, a medium-soft cow's cheese flavoured with rosemary. They taste as good as they look. Milanese tradition doesn't usually have a place for pastry, but an exception is made at this charming corner where you should stop for cappuccino and cake. Take their beautifully hand-wrapped parcels of biscuits and sweets home.

Panettone is their speciality. Peck, the ultimate Italian deli, has become a Milanese mini-empire. The main shop, close to the Duomo, has enough Parmesan mountains, salami tailbacks and olive-oil lakes to keep any EU bureaucrat happy. Behind the neat and gleaming front section stretch 2,sq m of kitchens, cold rooms, cellars and offices.

Downstairs is the wine cellar, where bottles are displayed on cherrywood shelves as if in a museum. Just across the way, in via Hugo, is the Cracco-Peck restaurant. The only real drawback is the self-restraint required. Princi, a new bakery near corso Como designed by Claudio Silvestrin, features a dramatic open kitchen, a real fire and a long, thin, stone 'shelf' instead of tables. High-design creeps into everything in Milan, including pastry shops. Sugar specialises in contemporary-style cakes and dainty offerings such as individual cake portions. Venchi, attached to the new Park Hyatt hotel, specialises in rare, regional recipes.

It turns out more than products, including truffle cigars and jars of 'Chocaviar' - extra-bitter 90 per cent cocoa granules. Sells the finest cut-throat razors, badger hair shaving brushes and a comprehensive selection of kitchen and hunting knives, plus every imaginable smoker's accessory, from briar pipes to Toscano cigar cases. Cutting-edge furniture and homeware showrooms cluster in three main areas: the top end of via Manzoni; the parallel streets of via Durini and via Cerva just south of San Babila church; and the Brera-via Solferino axis. Black Out has one of the best collections of modern and contemporary lighting in Milan.

One of Ponti's original aims was to make good design affordable, something that still holds true today. If you have time to visit only one of the amazing range of furniture shops in Milan, make it this one. The store, which was masterminded by Achille Castiglioni, is at the cutting-edge of furniture design and you can be sure you will reliably find the best of what's new on the scene here.

Browse round Dilmos, a modern furniture emporium of the highest order with pieces by Sottsass, Pesce and Starck. Located next to Peck, Milan's famous food hall, Il CentroTavola is a showroom for the best European products of the moment, such as linen from Belgium and Lithuania; china from Germany; and stylish glasses from the Veneto region.

Our chefs at The Oudh believe in showering guests with an exceptional Nawaabi experience through a highlighted introduction of Awadhi cuisine wrapped in exotic spices and aromas. It is famed to be the Choice restaurant for family get-togethers, parties and social revelries. The Claridges, 12, Dr. Olive Qutub is a hideaway where good food, laughter, culture and conversation come together in a delightful melting pot. Dappled sunlight on soft arm chairs.

Travel Guide To Milan

A white-pebbled courtyard punctuated by bougainvillea. Worlds collide and time stops in this Mogul mansion turned alfresco Mediterranean restaurant; home to warm and casual elegance, with its beautiful white walls and a vast canopy of a Banyan tree. The Dirty Martini is the striking, s, cocktail bar under the shadow of the QutubMinar. Visit this star-lit tree-top terrace bar for the best martinis in town, delicious food and eclectic music in a beautiful setting perfect for get-togethers.

GreenHouse on the Ridge is a small and intimate space where chefs cook right in front of you, serving up home style and modern meals with seasonal produce. Welcome to the tasting lab by the forest. Cuisine: Mediterranean Italian European Salad. Bella Cucina literally means a "beautiful kitchen". At the heart of the beautiful kitchen lies an imported Molteni. A legend in premium stoves, Molteni sits in the heart of most renowned restaurants in the world and is born into ancient craftsmanship, wisdom and detail.

No two Moltenis are the same and the one in Bella Cucina is especially crafted according to Chef's needs. An all-day dining restaurant featuring global cuisine presents guests with a sensory world cuisine experience. It revolves around the five interactive show kitchens displaying a sumptuous array of food, a dining concept that brings the excitement of cooking from the chefs.

The widest spread includes a lot of innovative Asian and European offerings, not forget the duck oven and pizzeria section that the restaurant boasts about. Local and other regional cuisines are also one of the key components that complete it for the patrons. The outlet also has bakery section that always keeps the senses of customer refreshed with aroma of freshly baked breads. Playing with natural light, the sky light in a section of the restaurant ceiling, paired with luscious green view and the warmth of the impeccable service creates an unforgettable experience at latest recipe. The far end of the restaurant consists of a Private Dining Room which is the perfect setting for a private dinner seating up to 14 people.

Cuisine: North Indian Asian Italian. What makes Punjabi cuisine so robust and varied is that it has been richly influenced by all the invaders — from Alexander the Greek to Babar the Mongol to Sher Shah the Afghan to Nadir Shah the Persian. The menu at Paranda is a paean to this cuisine. At Paranda, themes of soil, water, fire, charcoal and forest permeate the menu resulting in aromatic dishes that are rooted in the landscape from which they were drawn.

The food stays true to its old-world heritage with the chefs using regional Northern Indian Cooking techniques and secrets to create small moments of surprise. The Paranda kitchen has a philosophy of simple purity. The menu features an abundance of robust, earthy dishes that has evolved from the province of Punj five Ab water — The Land Of Five Rivers. From the ingenuity of the ingredient to the flawlessness of the execution, every aspect of Paranda will lead to an emotive, intense, liberating way of eating with fingers unlike any other.

So, as they say in Punjab, chalo roti kha laiye. Chi Ni v. Chi Ni at The Roseate New Delhi has taken the initiative to bring the same individuality and eccentricity that the brand Roseate Hotels and Resorts represents making it one of the most endorsed oriental luxury dining space in New Delhi. The restaurant design comes from the drawing board of acclaimed restaurant designer Bob Puccini to create the first of its kind fine dining restaurant in the country under a tent-canopy.

The Chinese restaurant also offers private dining rooms, a winery, a bar setting and an alfresco experience perched atop a manicured hill overlooking the iconic stained glass boat by Lek Bunnag amidst a magical landscape setting making it one of the best Chinese restaurants in Delhi not only known for its culinary art but also its edgy design and architecture. Having trained at a renowned Michelin starred restaurant he now brings to India the amalgamation of his concepts appealing to the Indian audience.


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The restaurant is also known to serve one of the best Thai cuisines and modern Indian fare in New Delhi. Set amidst Isfahan columns surrounded by royal blue water bodies, Kiyan offers luxury dining space in a magical entourage. Each dish on the menu has been handcrafted by our expert chefs.

Since the food is fresh from the farm, the chef changes the menu every season. Terms and Conditions Apply. Visit www. Home Restaurant. Select a Restaurant. By Cuisine North Indian.

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South Indian. Charcoal Grill. Street Food. Modern Indian. Filter Your Result. View Details. EN maintains the highest standards in its food services with exquisitely modern comforts Cuisine: Japanese. Cuisine: North Indian Mughlai. Cuisine: North Indian. Cuisine: Italian.

Cuisine: Chinese.